Climber, 18, Sends Action Directe for First 5.14d [Video]

Michał Korban, 18, has climbed his first 5.14d with the famous Action Directe in Frankenjura, Germany. This is the first known redpoint of the steep limestone route in 2024, in 2023 it was climbed by at least six people including Stefano Ghisolfi.

“I decided to do this section with a heel hook,” he said on 8a.nu about the crux. “At first, it felt like a bit of a lottery, but once I got used to the move, it felt right. Going straight from the crimp also wasn’t a bad beta for me, but I felt it cost me too much energy. The toe hook felt almost impossible.”

The first ascent was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, but it had been bolted by Milan Sykora in the 1980s. The original route traversed in from the right, but Güllich bolted a direct start. It’s typically climbed in about 16 moves, but has been …